From Cape to Crater

Wednesday April 20th

Misty drizzle again this morning meant a relaxed start to the day.  Water temps still close to 19deg and warm days in the mid-20's...

 We motored gently out of Dick's Bay and at the agreed point sails were hoisted into a very light (2-3kt) headwind.  The zephyr gradually built as we both headed north to catch the stronger apparent wind on the other side of the bay.  many tacks later and Kalai again had eked out a lead as we hardened up to clear Hat island to starboard and out past Hope reef into a messy sea.  A NE swell combined with the dying SE'ly meant some uncomfortable sailing with not quite enough air to keep sails filled.  Eventually we bailed and motored the rest of the way around Urupukapuka island into Intico Bay for a swim and sustenance.  

A leisurely cockpit lunch ensued  with Hirondelle II easily winning the luncheon stakes with cold chicken, various cheeses and accoutrements on display...

An afternoon breeze filled in so we decided to make the most of it and weighed anchor (having been rafted up) having decided that the afternoon leg would terminate at Crater Bay, leaving Motuterakihi island to port...

Again the wind lightened and under the "no-Extra's" rule the Gennaker  was unavailable so I was forced to lay an indirect course zig-zagging NW while the spinnaker pole-equipped Hirondelle went directly toward the mark 'flat-off' the wind.  Consequently Kalai found herself in the unusual chasing position at Motuterakihi isalnd and desperately trying to sail a direct course to  the Te Puna inlet - which at one stage had the skipper hanging off the rails trying to keep the genoa 'win-and-wing' with the mainsail while 'Bru' steered the helm.

Still trailing by several hundred metres at Poraenui point with less than 2km to sail to the finish I decided to take a punt and took a wide berth around the point while the leaders stayed close inshore to sail the more direct route.  It did appear that there were a few more "cat's paws" on the water a few hundred metres out from the shore so I stayed wide and in the lightest of airs picked up some significant 'lifts' which saw me gliding past the now stalled Hirondellians - from which direction there appeared to be some wailing and gnashing of teeth - and then gently 'hardened up' to float into Crater (Wharengaere) Bay with 50m to spare!

We anchored in the eastern corner, next to a launch belonging to John, the hero of the 1994 documentary Pacific Rescue (http://www.bluesuit.co.nz/1994.htm)  

...In June of 1994 a dangerous "bomb" storm caught dozens of cruising sailors by surprise as they voyaged north from New Zealand. This is the true story of how nine yachts struggled to survive the hurricane-like conditions. Boats were battered by fierce winds and capsized by seas towering well over 50 feet high. Equipment was ripped loose, and water penetrated every weak point. Masts collapsed, rudders broke, and sailors lost steering control when they needed it most. The crews coped as best they could with injury, fear, exhaustion, and illness. Their electronic calls for help were picked up by satellites and radio operators, who initiated a massive air and sea search. This is the story of heroic rescues, human endurance, and tragic loss.

 John, a spry octogenerian, popped over for a chat.  Fenton had met him on a previous occasion and had told us about how he had self-funded a radio network in the north, building the towers and transmitters to enable he and his wife to provide a land base for boaties in the southern pacific region.  They played a key communications role in the rescues of 1994 which saved at least eight lives.  John has been on his own for a few years after his wife died and still gets out on the water, receiving several phone calls each day from his mates who keep a check on him!  A great character and a privilege to meet him.

Close Coastal Cruising Continues...

Tuesday April 19












A beautiful calm night gave rise to a windless morning with some misty drizzle.  I think that the vista from this bay (Pareanui) is one of my favourites as you look out due north through the encircling islands to the open ocean...


A daily course was agreed upon - keeping Nine-pin island to starboard and then return to Waiti Bay.  Well, the best laid plans and very light winds meant that we didn't weigh anchor until after lunch so a mid-course change was made as we tacked through Oteihei passage with less than 0.4m under the keel... low tide through there is not tenable unless you draw less than we do (1.55m).  Meanwhile Kalai was inching ahead on a light SE breeze and a conversation from Fenton on Channel 4 saw us agree to head straight to Waiti (Stingray) Bay, tacking through the channel with Kalai 300m ahead going into the Bay.

The Sou'easterly was curling around the point making the Bay less than inviting for an overnight stay, so we changed tack and headed for Opunga Cove.

Hirondelle was off with a bit between her teeth whilst I was trying to decide whether it was worth re-hoisting the main.  A fine sailing breeze was too tempting to resist and so the race was on again across the inner channel watched by a pod of dolphins as a tacking duel ensued heading toward Opunga. 




Fine crew work by Fenton and Terry kept them in the game but once again Kalai proved her racing pedigree (Swooper of Cox's Creek - the plug for our Davidson31 and predecessor to the two time, 1978 and 1979 World Half-ton champion "Waverider")and had the edge as we crept dangerously close to the rocks off Tangitu point with the Davidson narrowly edging ahead to hold off the very slippery-in-the-light Jeaneau...

We decided to head further into Manawaora Bay and anchored in the very sheltered if somewhat shallow Dick's Bay with a metre or so under the keel.  

Night came on quickly as drinks were taken and a soft Scotch mist fell...

April Cruising...

Saturday 16th April

The faithful JQ217 failed to materialise at its predetermined hour in Melbourne (late leaving Auckland) and consequently we were delayed until after 1am before finally pushing off toward Aotearoa. 

Having arranged to be picked up from the Airport to meet some old cronies at Kohi beach  for the 7am swim, it was sadly after 0700hrs before we touched down and Heather C. met me at the arrivals exit. Still, we did make it down in time to see the lonely souls exiting the still waters of the Waitemata harbour - it was great to see some familiar faces and to drink a bowl of great coffee at the Kohi cafe.

Back on the road to meet Paul and Chris at the Greenlane servo and then on to Whangaparaoa Peninsular and the Enrights for Brunch to celebrate Mike's 60th and the 40th anniversary of the forming of the world-renowned Balunatix!  Hard to believe that it was two-thirds of a lifetime ago that the four young lads entertained the youth gathered at that 1976 Easter camp complete with Garbardine Coats and Gumboots!

 

  Naturally the members couldn't resist reprising their infamous 'dead ants' for the gathered throng!

After  watching Mike 'thrash' his aged body around a Soccer pitch with like-minded (deluded?) middle-aged and older men, I concluded that kayaking, walking and particularly sailing were much more sensible activities for those of advancing years!

So it was with some relief that I met two even more senior fellow sailors in Fenton and Terry that evening and we sped northward in the light rain to the blessed climes of the Bay of Islands and our waiting 'mistresses' ; Kalai and Hirondelle II (a Jeaneau 29.2). 

Sunday 17th April

Sunday dawned slowly as the low clouds turned to drizzle and we ventured into Paihia for  the essential Supply Trip.  

Nekminute we were back on the dock, loaded, watered and off down the estuary.  

Motoring through to Tapeka in a light nor-easterly we raised sail and the first race was on!  The boats were fairly evenly matched on paper with identical water-length and mainsail areas.  Kalai was however slightly longer overall and heavier (3660kg v 2650kg displacement) and carried a larger head-sail with her masthead rig.

Awaawaroa Bay was the agreed destination and the entrance the finish line...








It quickly became apparent that the old girl was certainly no slug in the 5-7kt breeze and she and I gradually pulled away to be some six minutes ahead by the time sails were doused and various Pipi Bay libations partaken thereof...


  

Monday 18th April

A fine day dawned with the promise of light SE breezes so a new course was set mid-morning to terminate at the luncheon destination of Oke Bay.  A fierce tacking duel ensued as we worked our way toward Urupukapuka bay and the northern entrance channel.  Again Kalai held the advantage upwind but in the light airs it was neck and neck by the time we rounded the entrance to the bay as Hirondelle gained ground hugging the rocky coast.  A call of 'starboard' was heard from the Swallow as Kalai steamed through on Port tack just inside the entrance (well clear of any obligation to yield according to her skipper!).  Horondelle promptly dropped her main and claimed victory - though a later meeting of the race Committee failed to agree on which point was the agreed finish line! We'll call it a draw...

A lovely spot for lunch but exposed to the northerly swell and not a great place to spend the night...





A contrary wind and a narrow entrance so we motored 'rock-hopping' back inside the main Bay and checked out Omakiwi before settling on Pareanui Bay - a beautiful spot...


... more to come as the racing continues in earnest!

Sailing once more...

The final few days of this trip were quite wonderful...

We stayed variously in Opunga Cove ( one of my favourites), Paradise Bay (Great Day Bay but a bit rocknroll at night as the swell bends around the point) and Te Puna inlet in Patanui Bay(very quiet but with a few mozzies at night).  Much sunning and relaxing with the blessed and somewhat persistent easterlies providing warm days and calm evenings and the chance to use the BBQ... not to mention some much anticipated 'lilo' time!




On our last morning (Sunday) we read a Psalm together, had a delicious Peruvian blend coffee and gently tacked our way out of the inlet, through the Kent passage and right back up the estuary in 5-8 kts of breeze.  Beautiful!

The new engine started first time, every time with no fuss, though we still have some drive train noise that I'll explore on another visit...


Cleaned up that night and caught up with Webb Chiles for dinner at the OCC - it was good to see him again and here of his plans to continue on his circumnavigation later in May.

On the bus Monday morning for an uneventful trip home... a mere 13 hrs on from locking the boat I was gratefully stepping through our front door!

Reunions, Russell, Rellies and Relief!

Great comment by another Frederick (who just happens to share his name with one of our very handsome grandsons, a certain Edward(Ted) Frederick!).

Buechner is right, I reckon, you never know in life where some joy will be serendipitously revealed even in the most unexpected of circumstances...

For example: just this afternoon I shared in the joy of James the Engineer as we heard the most welcome chattering growl of three cylinders spreading their joy for the very first time (more on that later!)

Reunions

Last Thursday I travelled south on the $1 Bus to be met by my sweet wife in Orewa and then on to old friends Mike and Lorraine's place in Arkles Bay, Whangaparaoa for a couple of nights... A certain birthday required a little celebratory dinner and the getting together of some old mates from the '70's and 80's.  Over to Parnell to the Windsor Castle and a chance to hear Steve (on the far right) play a gig (SteveyDan Band) with a good feed to follow.  Naturally Mike and I had the traditional late night swim dans le bay sans le togs upon our return...

Back up to Ngunguru on Saturday/Sunday with a visit by Barrington and I to check on the engine installation progress... suffice it to say it was on the way but not all the way...

Cath and I decided to head up on Monday anyway after visits to Anne and Tim, a catch up with Maurice and Myra Dormer and a drop in to the Billy Bowdens, with the expectation of progress being made for perhaps even a late Tuesday sail...

Ah well, the best laid plans... 

Monday was a balmy 29 deg so we headed to Kerikeri to stock up on supplies, including a visit to Churchills, the bespoke local butchery who will even vacuum-pack their very fine cuts of meat for us boaties.  

I said to Cathy that I must try and find out where my Uncle John lives.  We'd heard he'd moved to Kerikeri when, naturally, we walked right into each other on the main street!  

Nekminute  plans were being made for dinner the following night.

Russell

Weka on Flagstaff hill

Tuesday was still hot and very humid with passing showers.  So we hopped on the ferry to Okiato and drove through to Russell for the day.  A swim, a wander and a very nice lunch on the deck of the Duke of Marlborough then back on the ferry, cup of tea with Raewyn and Steve, then off to John and Linda's place.

Rellies

Great evening of reminiscing and catching up, with the  bonus of a whole folder of old Williams photos off John's computer which his son Scott had scanned recently including:

My Poppa (front right) with the Queen Mom and members of the London Scottish Brigade

1960's Williams gathering up the hills (where Cathy and I later lived for a year after we married)

Uncle John with 4 Stewarts and 2 Bowdens

Tears of Relief!

Late this afternoon (Wed) a sweet sound was heard in the marina as the new 'donk' fired with the first push of a button and chugged merrily away... a little sea trial first thing in the morning and we might even get a few days of cruising in after a mere 17 days of patiently waiting...

But, as with all things unexpected - like the death of an engine! There have been the mysterious and serendipitous moments of joy  over these past few weeks which have provided moments and gifts of grace and wonder. All of them -  Reunions, Rellies and Tears of Relief combined!

...Behold the new SuperStew!

Installed, fully functioning and a joy to behold!

A welcome Birthday Present... coming soon to a dock not far away!

Yanmar 3YM30 AES

After much consideration and consternation it has been confirmed that the above new model will soon replace the old and now deceased model pictured below decorating my cabin floor - looks like I'll be working 'extras' for a few more years...:)

On Wednesday Fenton (A fellow boatie and ex-pat kiwi who with his wife Barb also commutes from Aussie to sail his Jeaneau 29.2 moored just along the pier from us)and I removed the old engine and associated accessories, including engine mounts, control panel, wiring loom and exhaust system, cleaned up the engine bay and now is the time of waiting... 

The final straw was yet another corrosion issue, this time in the block between the troublesome 3rd cylinder and one of the cooling channels resulting in seawater mixing with both exhaust and engine oil - replacement block would be required and perhaps a complete rebuild.. evidence of other latent corrosion problems made this an very unwise option.  


It will certainly be nice to finally have a 'donk' that can be relied on, one whose provenance is certain and maintenance history assured!

An unfortunate, small but very significant fault...

The not at all Vapid Venture of Victor Vitus

'Twas another warm morning that Victor set out on another 'venture... past the Mumma Duck with her seven ducklings...playing in the weeds

Victor's very nice Vehicular Ferry scurried across the Waikare inlet to deposit him on the other side.  

 

SkipperG warmed to the task by walking Victor up the steep ascent from the landing onto Okiato ridge and off they sped up hill and down dale, past Oyster Farms and still more mangroves until up, up, up over the last hill and down into Russell.

What a delightful town and such a contrast to the frenetic busyness of Paihia, just a ferry ride across the water.  Coffee time declared SkipperG and quickly added a very nice, but VERY sticky lemon meringue treat to the order...

Time for a swim, so off they sped across another hill and down, down to the coast and the beautiful Long Beach for a long swim... the same beach that Big Fella and Samuel built a great sandcastle just a couple of months ago!










complete with waves to body surf and Pirate ships ahoy!  

Not to mention plenty of taking of ease sitting under the shady Pohutukawa tree...

After taking their ease for some considerable time, Victor and Skipper G set off again back to Russell and the well-renowned Salt and pepper Calamari of the Duke of Marlborough Hotel just seemed to beckon them from afar... So Victor had a quiet snooze beside a lovely tree whilst SkipperG was 'Testing the Squid' as it were.

Young couple with baby at Russell... it's a sign!

Well fed and watered, the pair resumed their journey up and down the hills and back on the ferry home.  Whew!