From Cape to Crater

Wednesday April 20th

Misty drizzle again this morning meant a relaxed start to the day.  Water temps still close to 19deg and warm days in the mid-20's...

 We motored gently out of Dick's Bay and at the agreed point sails were hoisted into a very light (2-3kt) headwind.  The zephyr gradually built as we both headed north to catch the stronger apparent wind on the other side of the bay.  many tacks later and Kalai again had eked out a lead as we hardened up to clear Hat island to starboard and out past Hope reef into a messy sea.  A NE swell combined with the dying SE'ly meant some uncomfortable sailing with not quite enough air to keep sails filled.  Eventually we bailed and motored the rest of the way around Urupukapuka island into Intico Bay for a swim and sustenance.  

A leisurely cockpit lunch ensued  with Hirondelle II easily winning the luncheon stakes with cold chicken, various cheeses and accoutrements on display...

An afternoon breeze filled in so we decided to make the most of it and weighed anchor (having been rafted up) having decided that the afternoon leg would terminate at Crater Bay, leaving Motuterakihi island to port...

Again the wind lightened and under the "no-Extra's" rule the Gennaker  was unavailable so I was forced to lay an indirect course zig-zagging NW while the spinnaker pole-equipped Hirondelle went directly toward the mark 'flat-off' the wind.  Consequently Kalai found herself in the unusual chasing position at Motuterakihi isalnd and desperately trying to sail a direct course to  the Te Puna inlet - which at one stage had the skipper hanging off the rails trying to keep the genoa 'win-and-wing' with the mainsail while 'Bru' steered the helm.

Still trailing by several hundred metres at Poraenui point with less than 2km to sail to the finish I decided to take a punt and took a wide berth around the point while the leaders stayed close inshore to sail the more direct route.  It did appear that there were a few more "cat's paws" on the water a few hundred metres out from the shore so I stayed wide and in the lightest of airs picked up some significant 'lifts' which saw me gliding past the now stalled Hirondellians - from which direction there appeared to be some wailing and gnashing of teeth - and then gently 'hardened up' to float into Crater (Wharengaere) Bay with 50m to spare!

We anchored in the eastern corner, next to a launch belonging to John, the hero of the 1994 documentary Pacific Rescue (http://www.bluesuit.co.nz/1994.htm)  

...In June of 1994 a dangerous "bomb" storm caught dozens of cruising sailors by surprise as they voyaged north from New Zealand. This is the true story of how nine yachts struggled to survive the hurricane-like conditions. Boats were battered by fierce winds and capsized by seas towering well over 50 feet high. Equipment was ripped loose, and water penetrated every weak point. Masts collapsed, rudders broke, and sailors lost steering control when they needed it most. The crews coped as best they could with injury, fear, exhaustion, and illness. Their electronic calls for help were picked up by satellites and radio operators, who initiated a massive air and sea search. This is the story of heroic rescues, human endurance, and tragic loss.

 John, a spry octogenerian, popped over for a chat.  Fenton had met him on a previous occasion and had told us about how he had self-funded a radio network in the north, building the towers and transmitters to enable he and his wife to provide a land base for boaties in the southern pacific region.  They played a key communications role in the rescues of 1994 which saved at least eight lives.  John has been on his own for a few years after his wife died and still gets out on the water, receiving several phone calls each day from his mates who keep a check on him!  A great character and a privilege to meet him.