Today turned out to be our most ambitious sail in some interesting conditions... we ghosted up the coast in a dying SE breeze, barely making it through the gap between Cape Brett and Piercy Island before the wind died and we started the diesel (known as "The Barrington"), and hooked up "Bruce" the Tiller Pilot so we could enjoy the view unfettered by such mundane tasks as steering the vessel!
As I was relaxing on the foredeck, I had a sense of deja view as a large fluke hoved into view. Several weeks ago, while out kayaking at Queenscliff, I had followed a Southern Right whale out toward Port Phillip heads and this fluke was no coincidence! As the tail fin disappeared I yelled out to the first mate "Whale Ahoy! 10 m off the starboard bow! Get the camera!!!" (or words to that effect!).
A dorsal fin appeared, which then lazily followed us for some time, sometimes disappearing and then resurfacing, seemingly at a leisurely pace. It is probably that this was a basking shark, the second largest fish species, a plankton eating, non-threatening creature that feeds on the surface and grows up to 12 m long... we're not sure how big this version was, but stayed a respectful distance clear...
The breeze began to fill in as we headed west from the Cape, trying to avoid the many tourist vessels that visit the famous Hole in the Rock and promise their clients that dolphins will appear at some stage...
The breeze meanwhile continued to fill in from the NW (not SW as predicted and promised!) and soon we were smoking along at 6-7 kts on a tight reach past Urupukapuka island toward the KeriKeri inlet.
It was such a nice day and we had plenty of time with a great sailing breeze (13-15 kts by now), that we elected to head up to KeriKeri. Past the rolling green hills and beautiful bays we tightened up hard on the wind to lay the marks up the harbour channel.
Continuing on past the new Marina, we headed toward the narrow channel that wound its way right up to the Old Stone Store and Kemp's house, two of the earliest buildings constructed by the first settlers. I can remember going there when I was in Form 2 (about 12 yo) and meeting an elderly Miss Kemp, descendent of the original Mr Kemp.
The depth gauge was reading 1.1m under the keel (we draw 1.5m) and the tide had just turned to flow out... so, unsure of what the prospects were for navigating the channel on a falling tide, we turned and set sail for home. By now the wind had shifted to the West and we hoisted sail to slide through the Kent passage and up the channel to Opua. Right on the promontory guarding the passage is this gorgeous property - we decided that it was the perfect retirement home with private beach and boathouse to boot!
By now the wind was SW and 12-15 kts again and with full main and genoa set we sped up the estuary toward Paihia. Bemused, we noticed that several of the yachts out toward Tapeka point several hundred metres away, were going just as well as we were... but on the opposite tack! Sure enough a minute later our good breeze died and filled in again from almost the opposite Easterly direction! Needless to say that too soon died and "Barrington" was fired up for the final few miles home. By the time we arrived at the marina we had covered 67 kms and spent 9.5 enjoyable hours sailing in winds from every direction of the compass... the final challenge was manoeuvring into the berth with a SW breeze and tidal flow collaborating to make stopping in time a tricky business. An agile first mate and judicious application of full astern allowed some tired sailors to breathe a sigh of relief. 'Home' again after four days of brilliant sailing and relaxing, all in the typically fine early summer weather here in the Tropical North!
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