Slow plane home...

Finally landed late Sunday night after a full weekend and a delayed flight... turns out the Entertainment System had a software glitch and we couldn't possible fly the short hop to Oz without it working??? Nearly two hours later and that is exactly what we did!  I read my Kindle and had a nap or two - but certainly would rather have been two hours earlier and potentially miss watching an edited movie on a tiny screen...

The last few days of my stay on NZ combined a little frustration with a  chance to catch up with a number of old friends and colleagues.

The weather predictably turned to custard as I finished the deck-painting with strong winds and SW fronts passing through with irritating regularity.

Managed a few highlights:

• Attended the Saturday part of Te Karanga Ki Tua - the 2014 Gathering of the Baptist Churches of NZ in Waitangi which included a visit and service at Oihi point (Marsden Cove) to commemorate the first preaching of the Gospel in NZ by Rev Samuel Marsden in 1814.  We all (400+) climbed into buses and were ferried the 50kms out to the car park and walked down a steep decline to the cove.  Various Waita (greeting songs) and short addresses by Canon Phil Potter, Craig Vernall and Bishop Kito were interspersed with local Maori greetings and prayers.  All in all a very moving experience.  

• Back at the Copthorne we enjoyed a Hangi and then it was back to the Cruising club to watch the talented NZ Rugby League team bravely defeat the Australian kangaroos in the final of the Four Nations Cup.  Great game and the various Storm players all acquitted themselves well.
• Up early to watch the dawn - and the Allblacks play Scotland then it was clean up and pack up, meet our friends Mike and Lorraine who had generously offered to give me a ride to Auckland, via Whangarei to watch their daughter Siobhan dive out of a plan in her first tandem skydive.

Back home the job list is gradually being whittled away... and the old Genoa I brought back  is proudly installed as a uniquely memory-provoking sunshade in the back yard...

Squally days... Indoor jobs and Interesting folks

Started the day (Thursday 13th November)with an early morning shower... and the showers haven't stopped since!

Periods of brilliant sunshine with over 10amps into the batteries from the solar panels, interspersed with cold SW bands of short-lived showers and strong (>35kt) 'breezes'.

Made and installed a couple of locking latched on the cupboard under the fridge (which the Caravaners had sought to hold close less than successfully with Velcro) Always seems to pop open when heeled to port more than 25 deg - which may have been why the aforementioned never noticed?

Also glued and screwed a handle to the inner hatch - which was previously difficult to open from the inside if one overenthusiastically closed it jammed hard against the washboards...

Also met some more interesting people today:

• Brian, skipper of 'Fergies Lady', a stretched Pelin 10.5m launch was busy preparing his outside teak 'brightwork' for yet another coat of you-beaut-guaranteed to protect compound.  I've noticed that there are two types of boaties here in Opua - those who have just discovered the latest (expensive) solution for protecting their precious teak, and those who are disillusioned at the effectiveness of least years compound!  Brian built his boat from some Kahikatea off his property and then used glass over mahogany ply.  We got chatting (Dad had once built a smaller Frank Pelin 'fizz-boat' when we were quite young and the boys in particular had a lot of fun learning to ski etc. behind it.  Brian had just installed new head-lining in the surprisingly spacious saloon and also new carpet which he had sourced from CarpetCourt - not a 'marine' carpet as such, but softer and with a non-rotting nylon backing which he reckoned was ideal. It did look good.
• Mike at the Chandlery turns out to be a genuine rev-head, involved over the years in many interesting car projects and racing experiences.  We chatted about mutual acquaintances - he was friends with Tim Bailey of Continental Cars fame and seemed to know well most of NZ's motor enthusiasts.  He told me to go around the back and introduce myself to...
• Chris, the stainless steel artist and fabricator.  Chris and Mike are working together on a car project which consists of the body of a Mercedes 350 sedan, a 195kw Falcon engine mounted alongside the driver and various custom manufactured stainless and metal accouterments courtesy of Chris.  He then took me out the back and showed me his real love - creating intricate and incredibly beautifully works of art in stainless steel.  Just amazing stuff...  Oh, and he does the odd stainless work for boaties - I suspect to pay the bills so he can give more attention to his art!

Nice to chat on Skype with the Young'uns tonight - gave them a video tour of the environs...  including the view I have as I sit here typing at the Nav Station - NOT BAD!

Time to heat up some of that very fine beef curry...

The adventuresome travels of Victor Vitus

Some of you will know of Victor Vitus, a somewhat retro reincarnation of an earlier iteration once known to have traversed across many and varied terrain at great speed and style.

Victor has come across the seas to a new home, where he seems to feel at peace with himself...  He remains, resting quietly upstairs in the Jame's loft at JB Marine and waits with no little sense of anticipation, for whatever adventures he is called to pursue.

Today was a day of fast travelling, some would even say, scudding clouds as first of a series of souwesterly fronts blew through the fair climes of Opua.  Morning visits to the Marina Office to pass across the counter some funds (an habitual process!), a short visit to Roger at North Sails to pick up the old Genoa and chew the fat, a visit to Bill the cabinet maker to further develop important networking processes (in case of future need!), to another Bill at Marine Insurance to talk about boats, family and life and then the obligatory strong flat White courtesy of Diane at the Cafe.  By now it was time for a visit to check on Victor, who no doubt was champing at the bit by now - I bet he could tell some lycra was in the neighbourhood.

A quick pump of the tyres and we were off up the infamous Opua hill, and then I was off Victor and checking why he was protesting with every turnof the pedals. Sure enough a little more alignment was needed to get the extremely small tolerances of his new cross-cycle geometry working.  A little further walking and then back on the seat as the slope levelled somewhat to only challenging (as opposed to gut-wrenching).  A 'short' km later and we were stopped again for some more adjustin, then whooping down the hill past the Roadrunner tavern set amongst the dense native bush.  All too soon the next incline was upon us as we quickly assumed the lowest gear and then assumed the walking position as the breathing became "en rapide'.  I remembered that I had never walked this particular devilish slope before as the coastal track misses it entirely!  On down again we flashed and only a short walk up the last hill, perhaps precipitated by inadvertantly neglecting to change into the small chain ring until too late!

A final hill was once again swooped down majestically as we entered Paihia and Victor allowed a short refreshment stop at the local Sorbet establishment before urging me on towards Waitangi, where we paused to allow Victor to catch his breath.

Why, I thought to myself, should I subject Victor to those particularly sharp and nasty hills again when a more scenic option was possible?

Back into Paihia and Victor had his first ride on the Russell Ferry - he seemed to enjoy it, spending the whole trip gazing intently out the window as the now gale-force winds whipped up a fair old fetch across the estuary.  Some very wet and bedraggled tourists were disembarking from the Mac attack as we quietly docked at the wharf.  








A ride around historical Russell revealed the site of the 'new' Russell Baptist Church who have become occupiers of one of the historic Church buildings in town.  














A brief chat to Katrina, who with husband Miles are re-establishing the work there. 

Well, said Victor, are we off then?

Alright I replied, how hard can it be - the road to the Okiato ferry looks pretty flat on Google Maps... Yeah, right!


At least there were  some compensations in terms of gorgeous scenery as we slowly flashed our way into the teeth of the headwinds... Only one short walk this time up a particularly nasty and sharp pinch, whereupon we happened upon a potential investment property - a whole peninsular including jetty and helipad!  Must check with my wife's financial advisers about possible making an offer...

Only a couple more ascents along the ridge line and then I gave Victor his head as we plummeted swiftly down to sea level and rode straight on to the vehicular ferry - much to the surprise ( or was it the consternation of the ticket-lady!)

A good 20km jaunt was had and Victor, probably a little weary, but no doubt happily replete was led back to his stable in the Upper Loft.

Done Paintin'...

25 hours and several litres later I'm all done with the deck and the deck is done with me!  

I wish I had a younger back - or at least a replacement for this one that seemed to have some obedience issues tonight when called on to bend down to put shorts on...

Still, I'm pleased with the result and, hopefully. it will be another 5 years before further remedial therapy is required ( for the deck, not my back!).  I had some critics come and check it over and the general consensus seemed positive!

Meanwhile the beef and apricot curry is simmering ready for my now normal dining hour of 9 pm...




Webb Chiles, who at age 72 sailed out here from the States in a Moore 24 ft yacht has flown back home for a few months after his marathon 6 month effort and posted about our meeting on his blog last week... 






All sorts of cruisers arrived en mass this week from Tonga/Samoa/Fiji,including this interesting catamaran with its load of bronzed and bearded hardy souls...

Most of the rest of them are monster boats 45-60ft, but good old Bert arrived yesterday in his little Contessa26 'Bika'.  I heard the rapid revving off an ineffective outboard as another victim of the notorious Opua tidal flow underestimated its effect - fortunately the wooden pole took most of the blow before the bow of Bike bounced off the neighbours stern mounted inflatable ...
Turns out the old coot just bought the boat in Fiji because his partner (Fijian) fell in love with it, so he sailed it back to NZ for her!  In one of my sleepless moments last night I did some research and found out about Bika's history.  These little boats are quite seaworthy and have been all over the world.  This one was the home of a Norwegian couple who invested heavily in preparing her for offshore sailing - the tale of their journey is fascinating.  Bert picked her up "for a song" so he's done well, I reckon.



Rain is expected tonight and the rest of the week is a series of fronts rolling through - still, the best three days for painting have been had.  It was 28.5 today and a cracker!!! SHOULD HAVE BEEN OUT SAILING!!!!!!

All done - Nice work!

Transitions, Painting Preparations and Reflections

A cup of aromatic Supreme Ceylon tea with peanut butter toast was an early morning prelude to a hot shower and brunch (Eggs Benedict) at the Cafe.  

A visit to Caters to pick up the paint and accoutrements for the next few days labour, then back to the boat for a good scrub down with marine wash and scrubbing brushes to prepare the deck for sanding and painting over the next few days.  It looks like this fine spell will last until Tuesday late, so that's my deadline to get it all done.

I sadly farewelled my fellow companion for the past ten days, as Brian shouldered his duffel bag and ascended the hill to catch the bus home - a great expedition of over 330kms of sailing in idyllic conditions - On yer, mate!

Today was also a day to connect with a number of the 'characters' and delightful inhabitants I've been privileged to get to know these past couple of years.  

I've long been intrigued with George Clarke's TV series about the "Amazing spaces" people construct to house themselves and their hobbies. Kevin McLeod's series about his 'manspace' shed construction using recycled materials and innovative ideas has been inspirational and aspirational.

Most of us who are introverts by nature, crave isolation of some sort, to find a place where we can 'get away from it all' and discover some space to reflect, unwind and recharge.  I guess for me, Kalai has become my  primary 'micrspace'; a place of retreat and endeavour, a mixture of opportunity to be creative (see previous references to obsession with gadgets!) and also the chance to test myself in the learning of new skills and competencies.  

But perhaps in many ways this has become my most valued 'Sacred space' - a place where the beauty of this waters and the sheer satisfaction of slicing sweetly through the waves connects at a deeper soul level and evokes an appreciation of Yahweh's handiwork... as a Psalmist once wrote:

Your way was through the sea, and your path through mighty waters, but your footprints cannot be traced... Psalm 77:19

It has been in the tenuous and indeterminate tracing of these 'unseen paths' that I have found new connections within and without.  Each voyage forges a fresh path, a path that is not predetermined or confined, a path that resonates of both liberation and freedom, of unexplored opportunities that open every day as I seek to tune my sails to the wind of the Spirit...

This place continually surprises - whether it is in the sometimes achingly beautiful vistas that greet you at dawn...



































or in the sense of camaraderie -of moments shared, adventures enjoyed, challenges overcome and just time spent in the company of good friends, on land as well as at sea.  People like:

• Bob the ever helpful and gracious American behind the Chandlers counter
• Diane whose coffee and good cheer brightens my morning
• James whose generous provision of storage and sound mechanical advice has proven a Godsend
• Marie whose warm welcome at the Club is only matched by her humour and grace
• Brian, whose company and long term friendship has blessed my soul
• Webb, whose artistry and wordsmithing are second only to his resilience, daring and reflective wisdom

These are just a few of the blessings of inhabiting my nautical microspace here on E63, Opua Marina.

Cruisin' home

Still night and beautiful morning in Whangamumu as we rose at dawn to ready for the final leg back home.

 Drifting slowly off the anchorage (no speed records today!) we practised some light air sail trimming with 'Herbie' the Gennaker as we edged out towards Cape Brett, accompanied by some fine freshly brewed Tanzanian coffee...


The wind slowly built from the North, with a predicted change to SW later in the day.  We didn't want to get back to the Marina too early as docking is a lot easier on an incoming tide - due to change at 1430hrs.

Deep Water Cove

Decided to detour for lunch into Deep Water cove - beautiful spot and pristine still.  The old frigate Canterbury is 'buried' not far outside the entrance and several dive parties were in evidence.

Back on track we headed inside the Hope reef passage to make excellent time in a 15kt northerly, which promptly died as we reached Roberton island.  20 mins later the SW filled in, building to 15-20kts which gave us a cracking beat home most of the way up the estuary.

A tricky entry into the marina berth with the strong tail wind counteracting the tide - but eventually lines were attached and we were snug once more at home base.

Some links to videos of the Tutakaka-Whangamumu leg below... plus some stills from the video.

http://youtu.be/yu8UvxITMe0
http://youtu.be/pbnzK80pf_U

What displacing 4-5 tonnes of water looks like...

7+ knots - no problem!

Blasting North...

Thursday November 11th

Thursday morning was a slow start after the 13 hr sail on Wednesday.  A cooked breakfast, shower and morning coffee helped ease us into the day.  

A series of fronts whipped though as the wind gradually shifted from NW to SW with the passing of the low system off to the east.  We waited around until the worst of the rain bands had come through, knowing that our goal today was less ambitious than the previous. We figured we would head north up the coast perhaps as far as Whangamumu which should provide some shelter from the predicted 25+kt SW winds.  Given our expected course and destination, to the north, it was button down the hatches and don the wet weather gear as we left Tutakaka marina around 1345 for the blast north.

Plenty of white caps and rain squalls still around as we started with reefed main and partly furled Genoa we soon found our groove and Kalai proved a very seaworthy vessel as she surged across the various bays with their katabatic winds giving some extra spice to the journey. Soon we we confident enough to unfurl the Genoa and for a period of over three hours our speed hardly dropped below 6 kts, and most of the time was between 7-8.  

The only real hazards along the way were the appropriately named 'Danger Rock' off Whangaruru harbour entrance and the somewhat more benign-sounding 'Elizabeth reef' which almost claimed an earlier Davidson31 which was pottering gently north full of Mckays et moi nearly 40 years prior!



The more than 50kms were reeled off in just over 4 hrs, with an average speed of 6.4 kts - certainly a record for us on this trip.

It was with both a sense of relief and regret (that the roller coaster tide was over!) that we rounded the final rocky promontory and started 'Barrington' for the mile long passage into this beautiful key-hole harbour.

Moonrise was shared with the four other sheltering craft as we enjoyed a warming pasta and a fine Shiraz...

Long day, great sail!

Up at 0600, weighed anchor 0615 (the boys are becoming more efficient, eh?), billy boiling we motored quietly out of Port Fitzroy into a calm sea.

Gradual W breeze filled in as the plan was to revisit mokohinau islands for lunch and then head to Tuts. Best laid plans... continually headed by a north tending wind we hunkered down through a couple of strong squalls before deciding to head off on a starboard tack to save ending up at the Poor Knights... 

Meanwhile the wind backed further North and we gradually were able to lay our mark of the Tuts entrance.   Finally, just a couple of miles off the coast, the predicted SW arrived and we motored the last hour back into the harbour and again onto C61.

114kms in just under 13 hours at an average of 4.8 kts - reflecting the number of hours we were in light winds coaxing Kalai along.  Still, a record day in terms of distance covered!

A gracious invitation by the hospitable Ruby to join them for dinner was accepted with alacrity - delicious lasagna and a glass of merlot topped off the day! And naturally there was the opportunity to replenish the home baking stocks!!!

Waiting in Tuts for the last of the squalls to go through and then we'll potter up the coast - probably into Whangamumu for the night (25NM) then around to the BoI on the morrow with the plan to be back on the marina Fri late afternoon - dinner at the Club perhaps?

Climbed, flew and rested

Woke to a fine wee morning... nestled quietly in the heart of Kaikoura Island.  Leisurely breakfast and some reading until the urge to explore came suddenly upon us.

So, off in the inflatable to the head of the bay, having looked at the maps and seen one of the tracks looked like it came down close to our location.

Interesting history to the island...

We set off up the trail, after bush-crashing for a short time, which rose puffingly steeply and then plunged down into a couple of pretty gullies before ascending in a very even fashion up a ridge.  We both concluded  that this was (as in fact it turned out to be) a rudimentary airstrip - one which would require considerable valour to land and tack off from... with perhaps more horsepower thatn the poor bloke on the right is exhibiting!

The island has had a chequered history, changing hands many times with local and offshore owners before passing into the hands of the crown and being set aside as a memorial to the late Sir Peter Blake ( who maintained that Gt Barrier was his favourite island).

Back to Kalai and it was decided a swim would be in order - seeing as the water temperature had reached a barmy(!) 16.1 C...  A very quick dip followed by a soap and warm shower was fantastic,  Lunch and then a few more small maintenance tasks led to a relaxed afternoon with cloudy overcast but a good weather report for SW winds means an early start on the morrow.

The plan is to head back to 'Tuts' via Mokohinau - close to 100kms , hopefully pick up some home baking from the beloved Ruby (Hint!) then Thur/Fri make our way gradually north again to be back on the marina late Frid/early Sat.

Stony Bay - ahh the serenity...

Rain and strong winds from all around the compass kept us awake much of Sunday night as we swung and rocked on the anchor.   At one stage we both jumped out of bed when a thump was heard against the hull - 'twas only the inflatable dancing in the wind! You can see the movement in the YB track (which was inadvertantly left on during the night!)

The weather gradually cleared during the day as the strong northerlies gave way to a light westerly.

We rowed ashore and walked up to the General Store - which stocked a fair range of goods, but only received deliveries from the mainland every three and a half weeks on the winter, so no bread but some frozen pita pockets would suffice (along with the required licorice and kettle chips!)

Skipper and crew taking their ease....

Back onboard we motored quietly over the bay and anchored in a lovely spot on the south shore of Kawerau island, recently bought by DOC for $10.5 million and is being reinstated as a national reserve - we'll head off for a walk around the perimeter track after morning coffee...

Later in the day we cleaned the hull and the inflatable, attached the new Bay of Islands decal on the stern, freed up the sink valve, cooked a very fine beef curry (with enough for another day) and relaxed on a still, calm anchorage!

Mt Hobson

Stony Bay